Lajolla: the Beverly Hills of San Diego

With its panoramic ocean views, swaying palm treesbe well.
and unbeatable weather, La Jolla is like Hawaii withoutGerard is one of two main streets in the Village. Also
the five-hour flight.famous for its shopping is Prospect Avenue which
This was decades ago and we had just returned fromalso has lots of trendy boutiques and popular eateries.
our first real long-distance travel experience  anCheck out George's for spectacular views of the
unforgettable, eye-opening journey to Hawaii thatocean and award-winning cuisine. Brockton Villa's
exposed a couple of soggy Pacific Northwest collegeanother one just off Prospect that seems a perennial
students to bright sunshine and warm saltwater thatfavorite. A Caesar salad on the outdoor deck at
we never even knew existed. The very next monthMoondoggie's can be a refreshing and relatively
we were taking a Southern California vacation wheninexpensive pause as the breezes from the shoreline
we came upon La Jolla and it was, as Yogi would say,find their way to this part of the shopping district. Just
d? vu all over again.footsteps from Scripps Park are such outdoor cafes
To be sure, the water in Southern California wasas Cody's, the French Side of the West and Fay's
prettier than it was warm. And there weren't too manyGourmet Seafood.
native Hawaiians  although Hawaii doesn't seem toScripps Park is, in fact, just a block down from the
have many either. WHAT La Jolla did have was themain shopping district, and yet is anything but
views and that bright sunshine, and we werecommercial. You might find an ecology tee-shirt stand
determined that someday we would come back andbut mostly it's green lawn and meandering walkways
live there.that entice friends, lovers and families to stroll along
We did eventually live and work there, if only for aone of the most picturesque shorelines in all of
brief time, and this special coastal haven delivered onCalifornia. The shoreline is jagged and rocky in places
all its promises. The "Village," as the locals call Girardwhile at the same time offering up just enough beach
Avenue and the community surrounding it, is a gourmetto lay out your beach towels in some privacy. Stroll
blend of those spices that make life so enjoyable about 10 minutes south and you'll find La Jolla Cove
fine dining, world-class shopping, countless outdoorwhere you can watch the local seals sun themselves
activities, surf, sand, incredible views and, of course,on a scenic beach.
almost-constant sunshine.Skirting the east edge of Scripps Park is a scenic
Nowadays, the local home values have priced out theroadway that is often used as a bike route between
average mortal and, if you're living there, you've eitherLa Jolla and the more touristy beach town of Pacific
done very well for yourself or had the good fortune toBeach. The ride takes you through beautiful
grow up in a family that bought local real estate backneighborhoods  never far away from ocean views 
when local land prices were reasonable  probablyand through the fascinating town of Birdrock. It, too, is
sometime just after statehood. But there are twoartsy and trendy but maybe down a notch in price.
groups of people who are living in the VillageLa Jolla Shores is just north of the downtown area
temporarily: the renters and the tourists. The rentersand offers a mile-long beach where locals and tourists
plunk down several thousand each month for thealike congregate for outdoor activities. Nearby are the
barest of digs; the tourists stay only briefly but muchexpensive homes of the La Jolla Shores area as well
more economically.as a few hotels and a tiny shopping district.
Which is why it's great to be a tourist in La Jolla. WithNearby is a marine preserve so it's common to see
a choice of several tasteful hotels and spa resorts divers preparing for their scuba sessions out in the
and, yes, some are quite reasonably priced  visitorsdeep. If you don't scuba, you'll find other ways to get
can pretend they're living the lifestyle for a few daysclose to the ocean such as paddling a kayak in an
and still go home with money in their pockets.area near what is known as the La Jolla Caves. Or
It all begins with watching the people parade down onyou can actually climb down in the caves by visiting
Gerard Avenue. Plan to have a gourmet sandwichthe La Jolla Cave and Shell Shop, where there is a
down at one of several cafes and then plop yourself145-step walkway to the Sunny Jim Cave, the largest
at an outside table. Leading the parade is aof these grottoes.
20-something bombshell dressed in aAnother seaside favorite is the Birch Aquarium, a
spaghetti-strapped halter and capris, dragging along apopular place to take families for an up-close look at
five-inch poodle that is decidedly disinterested in beingsea life such as coral reefs, tide pools and even
part of this parade. Next up: a 30-something clean-cutsharks. The Aquarium has a 70,000-gallon tank in
guy wearing lumberjack boots up to his ankles, hiswhich many sea creatures are on display.
pants squished into the boot tops, and his long-sleeveIf you simply want to drive around the area, the
shirt well down over his belt buckle. It must be new Laspectacular homes make it worthwhile. One especially
Jolla fashion because his stylish 20-somethingrewarding drive is to head up Nautilus Street to the
model-like girlfriend doesn't seem the least bithighest elevations in town where the Mt. Soledad
embarrassed to walk beside him. Then along comesMemorial Cross is dedicated to veterans of the two
two 30-something men, dressed almost identically inworld wars and the Korean War. While there has
turtlenecks, expensive sports jackets and shades,been a political tug-of-war about whether the cross will
surely sweltering in the mid-day sun but cool in theirremain, the views from this part of La Jolla offer one
own minds. And on it goes all during lunch, making itof the best ways to see the topography of the entire
almost worth the nine bucks it cost for the sandwich.San Diego area.
You might even see celebrities in this neck of theAT A GLANCE
woods. We came upon Geena Davis and her kids oneWHERE: La Jolla has often been called "the Beverly
time, while beautiful people such as Cindy CrawfordHills" of San Diego and is located about a 15-minute
have actually bought houses in the Village. Barbradrive north from downtown. Several of the best San
Streisand is said to have bought her wedding ringDiego hotels are located here, so this is an excellent
down at Bowers Jewelers. Movie and TV filming arebase of operations for a Southern California vacation.
common and the longtime series Silk Stalkings usedWHAT: A seaside village that offers some of the best
the local scenery quite often to depict the glitzyshopping, restaurants and ocean views of the entire
glamour of Southern California.San Diego area. Spa vacations are big here, and there
Walk down Gerard just a little ways and there seemsis a good selection of spa resorts and facilities in the
to be plenty of temptation to bring out your credit card.area.
There are specialty stores like Rangoni shoes, artWHEN: Year-round. Always keep an eye out for
galleries like Cosmopolitan Fine Art and Images oftravel deal, and travel packages at San Diego hotels
Nature, and then more typical "mall" stores like Bananaare more plentiful during slower times of the year.
Republic and the Gap. Side streets have their ownWHY: La Jolla is quiet and has a village-like
offerings, many of them related to health, fitness andatmosphere, and is perfect for a vacation -- or even
well-being  even if you need a little plastic surgery toretire if one could afford it.